On The Road to Fes 2.0
/There’s something to be said about a sunrise over a cemetery. Let me be clear, this is no ordinary cemetery. It’s one of the oldest Jewish cemeteries in Morocco, located in the Mellah (old Jewish quarter) of Fes.
More than 13,000 are buried here, from the tzadikim (righteous) Rabbis to the unmarked graves of those who died during the epidemics. Gravestones date from the 17th century to as recently as last month.
Around the corner within the Medina (old city) is Ibn Danan Synagogue, one of the oldest in the region. Built in the 1600’s when the Jewish population flourished it closed in the 1970’s as the jewish population dwindled. It underwent a renovation in the 1990’s letting this cultural gem shine for visitors from all over the world.
Before meandering through the medina, we stopped to admire the official Royal Palace and the famous 7 golden gates that mark its entrance (more on the ornate brass doors later). A popular outdoor picture spot because the palace is not open to the public. We are told this 80-acre facility includes a golf course designed by Jack Nicklaus! It is also said there is a plan to open the palace to the public within the next few years.
Just before the entrance to the old city we got a quick tour of a pottery and mosaic workshop, and an opportunity to shop!
With a new appreciation for this elaborate art work, we made our way into the medina. The 14th century walls surrounding the old city have been built, destroyed and rebuilt a dozen times. The only way to navigate your way through is by walking, with miles of narrow winding roads. While it feels like a step back in time, it is still a vibrant city with 300,000 people living in the old section.
Nestled within the marketplace and craft shops is one of the world’s oldest universities. Built in the Moore style of architecture, the 12th century structure is built with wood, stucco and mosaic featuring the green color of Islam. The curriculum - beyond challenging. Students have a maximum of 10 years to graduate - only 15% do.
We got a pungent insight into the ancient art of tanning and dyeing at Chouara Tannery. This family owned business dates back to the 11th century. Cow urine and pigeon poop are the secret to the softness. Fortunately, visitors on the tour are given sprigs of fresh mint to offset the smell! The brilliant colors come from natural dyes - yellow from saffron, blue from indigo, red from poppy and so on.
Now, back to those palace brass doors. Our last stop in the Medina was L’Art Des Fibule, a three-generation bronze craft shop. During a demonstration our host explained that his father was the artist who created the brass doors at the Royal Palace entrance during it’s renovation in the 1960’s! I wasn’t the only one who left with a lovely purchase.
Our group dinner was a perfect way to wrap up this adventurous day. Traditional Moroccan food, entertainment and celebration! Tomorrow, we head to Marrakech.
